No internet? Your Wi-Fi router might not be to blame

• Start with your ISP-provided hardware
• A few other simple fixes
• Is there anything else I can do?

If it isn’t number one, dropped internet access has to be near the top of the list of tech problems people deal with on a frequent basis. What’s maddening is that it can often be difficult to diagnose the source of your trouble. If your internet service provider (ISP) isn’t reporting an outage, you may be left rooting through software and hardware settings until something clicks, either literally or figuratively.

Sometimes the fault will certainly lie with your Wi-Fi router, given that it’s how most of your home devices bridge with the internet. But there are other factors worth considering, some of which I’ve had to deal with personally. Try investigating these if your router and ISP appear innocent in everything.

Start with your ISP-provided hardware

What they didn’t say in the fine print

If you live in a house, and you’ve got fiber-based internet, that means you have an optical network terminal (ONT) installed somewhere. This is sometimes dubbed a fiber box or fiber jack, but the purpose is always the same — translating the optical signal from the fiber line into electrical signals your modem and router can receive. If you weren’t around for the install process, the ONT panel is probably located in a closet or your garage.

Ordinarily, it’s best to avoid messing with your ONT. If you’ve already ruled out modem and router problems, however, you may have some luck turning this panel off and on again if there’s an associated power switch. I’ve had to do this a few times in my own home, and I didn’t even realize it was an option until a phone call with my ISP. While you’re examining the box, make sure nothing is loose, being careful around any power cables.

Regardless of your connection type, if you have a dedicated modem, try power cycling it. That is, unplugging it, waiting about 30 to 60 seconds, then plugging it back in again.

Regardless of your connection type, if you have a dedicated modem, try power cycling it — that is, unplugging it, waiting about 30 to 60 seconds, then plugging it back in again. That will force it to clear any temporary data, then establish a fresh connection to your ISP. If the modem’s status indicator light turns a solid color that isn’t red or orange, you should hypothetically be back online. You may also need to power-cycle your Wi-Fi router if devices still can’t connect — it could be that the router needs to obtain updated info from the modem.

With cellular or satellite internet, there’s another wrinkle: antenna alignment. It may be that the antenna has been knocked out of position, in which case you’ll have to call a technician if it’s not one you can easily realign yourself. The issue might alternately be the weather, or some sort of obstruction, either distant or in the form of debris on the antenna. Naturally, a damaged antenna is going to need replacement.

A few other simple fixes

Have you tried jiggling it?

This might seem a little insulting at first, but try checking the Ethernet, coaxial, and/or any other data cables linked to your modem or router. Assuming everything’s plugged in properly, there’s still a small chance that one of the cables has been damaged enough to prevent data reaching your router. Look for signs like pinches, exposed wires, or bent pins. If there is severe damage, swapping in a new cable may do the trick.

Something I haven’t touched on so far is the fact that many ISPs provide a mobile app tied to their hardware. You may be able to use this to get a fast diagnosis, or even trigger some functions remotely. If you’ve been taking advantage of parental controls, downtime, and other restrictions, make sure you haven’t accidentally enabled these.

If a desktop or laptop computer is having trouble getting online, but other devices are functioning properly, it’s likely a software issue. In Windows 11, search for network problems in the taskbar, then open the associated troubleshooter. In macOS, hold down the Option key and click on the Wi-Fi icon in the menu bar, then choose Open Wireless Diagnostics. The Windows troubleshooter will attempt some basic software solutions for you.

Some other things to try for individual devices are flipping their Wi-Fi off and on, rebooting them, or switching from Wi-Fi to Ethernet (or vice versa).

With any individual device having trouble, there could be a bug resolvable with a software update. Usually this is going to come in the form of an OS (operating system) update, but Windows PCs also have separate hardware drivers for components like docks, network adapters, and USB interfaces. Some of these can be updated via Windows Update, but your PC or component maker may have provided separate update utilities. If all else fails, they should have driver downloads hosted on their website. Look for the latest version matched to your model and platform.

Some other things to try for individual devices are flipping their Wi-Fi off and on, rebooting them, or switching from Wi-Fi to Ethernet (or vice versa). If all else fails, you can try resetting their network settings, or even performing a factory reset — but a factory reset should definitely be a last resort, since you’ll need to set your device up again as if it were new. There’s no guarantee that it’ll solve your woes, either.

Is there anything else I can do?

Some more obscure solutions

It could be that VPN (virtual private network) or security software is interfering. If you’ve got a VPN connection active, try temporarily disabling it. As for security software, it’s unlikely that it would halt internet access completely — but it’s not impossible that, say, essential ports are being blocked by a computer’s on-device firewall. I wouldn’t recommend disabling any security feature for longer than is necessary to test it, as the internet is so loaded with threats these days that even a few minutes or hours unprotected could lead to infection.

On Macs and PCs, you may be able to try things like manually resetting the TCP/IP stack or flushing your DNS (domain name system) cache. I’d only suggest the former if you’re technically savvy, since there are potential pitfalls, but flushing your DNS cache is relatively harmless.

To flush the cache on a Windows PC:

1. In the taskbar, search for Command Prompt and open it.
2. Type in ipconfig /flushdns then hit Enter.
3. You may want to reboot your PC to make sure the cache refreshes.

On a Mac:

1. Open the Terminal app.
2. Type in sudo dscacheutil -flushcache; sudo killall -HUP mDNSResponder and hit Enter.
3. Supply your password when prompted.
4. You may want to reboot to ensure a refresh.

In a final thought, I should note the possibility of an unseen defect in your modem or your home’s internet-related wiring, like your coaxial outlet or fiber cables. If you’ve ruled everything else out, it’s time to call your ISP and have a technician come over, even if they aren’t detecting any outages. They may be able to test equipment and solve the situation by swapping in new gear.