4 settings you can change to fix a blurry TV

• Motion smoothing
• Power-saving modes
• Sharpening and contrast
• Ethernet and other internet settings

Call it an Old Man Moment, but the picture quality on modern TVs is amazing compared to what I had as a kid. Everything was sub-DVD resolution, and frequently fuzzy, especially if was coming from an old VHS tape or a distant broadcast tower. By comparison, even the cheapest 1080p TV from 2026 is liable to do better — and have a bigger screen. There’s a giant chasm between my parents’ first TV and a 65-inch, 4K HDR set.

Nevertheless, it’s still possible to run into some familiar problems with the latest tech, including unintentionally blurry images. The good news is that it’s probably a software setting to blame rather than something to do with your hardware, or even the content you’re watching. You’ll see what I mean in a moment, though a hardware solution could be in the cards.

Motion smoothing

Disable it or spend some time experimenting

Motion smoothing has increasingly little reason to exist in 2026. Many TVs support refresh rates up to 120Hz or higher, as well as VRR, a feature that adjusts refresh rates on the fly to match different framerates. Smoothing can, in theory, reduce blur in some content by inserting artificially generated frames. But I’ve had no problems with turning it off, and it produces the dreaded “soap opera effect” in video at slower framerates — like the 24fps that’s been a cinematic standard for decades. It may actually create blur if its frame predictions are wrong, or if sub-settings aren’t configured properly.

I’ve had no problems with turning it off, and it produces the dreaded “soap opera effect” in video at slower framerates.

The safest move, typically, is to disable motion smoothing as I did. The toggle should be somewhere in your TV’s Settings app, but the confusing thing is that different TV makers brand the technology in different ways. LG calls it TruMotion, for example, while Samsung alternately uses Picture Clarity or Auto Motion Plus. You may need to explore various picture menus before you stumble on the right item.

If you insist on leaving smoothing on, try experimenting with any sub-settings that are present, like blur or judder reduction. The annoying part is that the only way to test your adjustments is by watching something, then going back to tweak things if they don’t look right. I’d suggest using both a favorite movie and some sort of sports stream to get a taste of varied framerates. Personally, I might use something like a PEV race, since the effects of smoothing will become apparent very quickly.

Power-saving modes

Negative consequences abound

In many circumstances, I’m a fan of power-saving measures. I’ll let my smart thermostat “coast” whenever the weather can help it out, and the lights in my house are set to turn on and off only as needed. When I owned an EV, I left its Eco mode on most of the time, even though I enjoyed out-accelerating sports cars when the mode was off.

Power-saving modes should always be left off on a TV, however, unless perhaps you’re running an info kiosk or a doctor’s office. The problem is that these modes can not only impact brightness, but contrast and other visual elements. You might, for example, see weaker highlights in HDR content. The overall result can be a murkier picture, which certainly won’t help with blur.

As with motion smoothing, you’ll find these modes under a variety of labels, like Eco Mode or Energy Saving on Google-based TVs. Just about any alternative will be better — although I prefer Filmmaker Mode, an industry standard that disables most post-processing to preserve the artistic intent of directors and studios. As a bonus, this disables motion smoothing simultaneously.

If you’re really concerned about lowering your power bills, there are better options. You can manually lower brightness to your own comfort level, and set auto-shutoff timers if you or your family is prone to leaving the TV on when no one’s watching. You might even connect your set to a smart plug that turns things off at prescribed times of the day.

Sharpening and contrast

Avoid going too far in either direction

If you’re not using Filmmaker Mode or a low-latency Game Mode, your TV applies a variety of post-processing effects to present the best possible picture. One of these is sharpening, which attempts to enhance the edges around characters and other onscreen objects.

Normally, the default sharpening settings on a TV will be fine. But if they’re too low, objects may appear less distinct than they should, even coming across as a little blurry. You should be able to fix this using your TV’s Picture menu (or some similarly-named equivalent). Don’t ramp sharpening up too high, however — that can lead to bizarre halos, or intensified noise and film grain, once again producing blur. The sweet spot is somewhere in the middle.

Similarly, you’ll need to strike a good balance with contrast. If it’s too low, objects will be hard to distinguish. But if it’s too high, you’ll annihilate details in highlights and shadows. That said, ideal contrast is always subjective, so play around with it until you find a level that makes images “pop” in a way you appreciate.

Ethernet and other internet settings

Is streaming quality getting in the way?

Sometimes blur can be caused by streaming artifacts — that is, botched video as your TV struggles to deal with a slow or flaky internet connection. If an app can’t count on smooth bandwidth, it may temporarily lower the bitrate to compensate, and that can lead to a muddled mess of giant pixels.

Perhaps the simplest way of fixing this is hooking up an Ethernet cable from your router or modem to your TV’s LAN port. Okay, technically this is a hardware solution, but Ethernet ensures a consistently fast connection that’s all but invulnerable to signal or range issues. A Cat 5e cable will do in most situations, although you’ll want to choose Cat 6 for futureproofing or if you’re lucky enough to have a multi-gigabit internet plan (paired with multi-gig devices). Your TV should switch over from Wi-Fi the moment you plug the cable in. If there’s no Ethernet jack, you may be able to use a USB-to-Ethernet adapter.

If Ethernet is impractical, say because your router is too far away, you may be able to improve the health of your wireless network.

If Ethernet is impractical, say because your router is too far away, you may be able to improve the health of your wireless network. When you want to watch TV, stop any high-demand activities like torrent downloads or competing video streams, and turn off or disconnect any devices that are no longer needed. Some routers also support a feature called SQM (Smart Queue Management). This prioritizes specific kinds of traffic, including video streams and online games.

You might also try repositioning your router and removing any obstacles causing interference. If all of these steps aren’t enough, it may be time to upgrade to a mesh system, or bite the bullet and pay for a faster internet plan. A state-of-the-art TV is meaningless if you’ve got 5Mbps of bandwidth left on a 200Mbps connection.